One Country but such different people

How proud we are as Indians about our diversity, how we always talk about our different languages and customs and blah blah. How quickly we assume the right of being the best. How quickly we accuse the Bengalis of doing the same ;) Well, after spending months in LA and then goin back to my favoritest (?) city in the whole world, NYC, i realised how diverse the US really is.
The difference between SoCal and NY is mind boggling. I can't even begin to explain it, so I won't...but I will say this. New York makes me feel alive. The minute you step into the city, you feel this incredible energy pass through you. Just like you do in Mumbai. People from out of town are usually overwhelmed by it, but not me. I'm a true blue city boy. And if i could handle Mumbai, I can handle NY. Its in my blood.
The three days i spent there were magical. To be in the heart of Times Square is somewhat like living in Colaba. This isn't the real Mumbai. I mean, it is, of course, but its hidden below a layer of tourists and people making money off them. The real Mumbaikars (or Mumbaiites or Bombayiites, you choose) almost exist on a different plane. They don't bother with the tourists and the tourists rarely interact with them. Times Square is inundated with tourists 24/7. But its also the heart of Manhattan. All of New York's brilliant subway train routes stop there. The new York Subway is a marvel. It is the most convenient and well designed train system ever.
As i took the subway from Times Square (42nd street) down to 23rd Street where my Office was, i relished the feeling of being back on the train. "enjoy this Sumier, you don't know when u'll get to be back" I thought. I gout out at 23rd street and on my way to the exit, i looked into the news stand and got the shock of my life. A 60 year old Gujju aunty with glasses behind the counter! wearing a saree! She looked like she belonged to a village in India somewhere. It is to be expected of course, NY has so many desis. Half the taxi drivers are desi, thats why NY driving is so bad ;) But I am not used to seeing sights like those and it was a shock.
New York buildings are grotesque, beautiful, imposing and dwarfing. My office was in a typical Manhattan building. A huge towering old stone building. One of those buildings which have a lobby and when u get into the elevator, the first floor up is floor number 15 or something. Meaning, the lobby is 15 stories tall. Looking up at the sheer monstrous space in the lobby is a humbling experience. The gothic architecture, natural lighting and that little New York something is a feeling I only get when i'm in VT in Mumbai. Manhattan is full of buildings just like these. Old gothic buildings, a little dirty, and little grimy, all modern from the inside and giving the city a personality that a thousand stripmalls across all of the midwest of the country could never dream of having. Its true, Manhattan buildings are tall and looking up at them is a jaw dropping experience. But people don't realise that its not just the height. Its the architecture, and the girth of these buildings. They are massive on all scales. We have tall building in Mumbai too, but i've never felt the way i feel when i look at Manhattan buildings in Mumbai. These buildings are towers...they are made to tower.
On the way back to LaGuardia (to the worst flight experience in my life...crazy weather delays and a 5 hour wait at the airport), I had a desi taxi driver. His name was Anwar Khan, he was from Calcutta. He had been here 27 years. He told me the most improbable story about having a software job for 26 years and then being fired. He had a salary of $111,000 and now was being offered one with only $35,000. Which is why he was driving cabs to survive. While this didn't make sense to me from any angle, i chose to keep quiet rather than question his honesty and modesty and incur his wrath. The man did after all, take pity on me and let me get into his cab after I had soaked in the rain for 30 mins. Besides, I thought that as I had not even been born when he came for the first time to the US, I should just keep my mouth shut instead of getting into an ugly argument. Anwar Khan took a liking to me. He started telling me about how his son was joining a Business school instead of comupters and how upset he was. All the while I was thinking in my head, some Indians never change, not even after being out of the country for 27 years. He then started warning me about Americans. "You think you know them? you don't know them, I know them. Atlanta Georgia or New York is not America. Go to Ohio, go to Kansas, go to a restaurant. They will never even sit next to you. They will smile at you, they will say hi and hello. But its all external. These people, won't even care for their parents, its all about the money for them". I wanted to say that Indians are like that too, I wanted to say that thats not fair and that not all Americans are like that. I wanted to say that he was a hypocrite for living in a country for 27 years and not being able to say one nice thing for it. Eating off its resources and hating the people.
And then i looked at him. I looked at Anwar the desi who came to the US 27years ago. When there were few indians and no IT. When Americans weren't as used to ethnic minorities amongst them as they are now. I looked at Anwar who had possibly lost his job, and had never found his identity in 27 years. A foreigner in his own home. An outsider, even for his own son who he admitted was almost entirely American, having been born and raised here. I pictured the racism he must have gone through. I certainly bought that story. I'm sure it was worse than what he told me. In the 70s and 80s in the midwest...it must have been horrible, degrading, insufferable. And yet he stayed on. A damaged man, something I and all of us are well on the way of being. And then I hoped that I would never be as angry and bitter and jaded as him. I knew I would be damaged, we can't avoid that of course. The best people are flawed. But I hoped I wouldn't have to suffer the way he had. I felt respect and pity for him at the same time and I understood him.
I saw a movie called Crash a month ago. Even though it fits into this story in NY, ironically it is set in LA. Another incredibly diverse place, with a history of racism. The movie explored 36 hours in the lives of very racially diverse people and their stories and how they interconnect. It is a brilliant, and I think important movie. Of course, it is contrived and manipulative, but it does its job. It makes you think. It has the most frank depictions of Racism i've ever seen. The characters in that movie make quick racial judgements about each other, only to be shocked and amazed but how they actually turn out to be. What was interesting about the movie is that the audience does it too. I had made up my mind about the people in the movie and I was shocked when i saw depth to them. Its inevitable, the human nature to categorize and label and think of everything as black and white (no racist connotation intended). Theres always a gray and theres several grays. No one can be reminded of that enough. This movie made me think about possible racist experiences i've had in my life and reexamine times when I just said to myself "that was nothing, he/she was just rude". Denial. I wasn't black. How could they be racist towards me? Desis are the most racist people of all. Its in our culture.
Both nights I was in New York, before i stepped up to my hotel to go to bed. I stayed out at Times Square looking at the signs, the lights, the people, the immensity of it all. I just stayed there looking for 10 minutes, feeling dwarfed and insignificant and totally alone in the entire world. It was the best feeling ever.